iPad mini 2 - Replacing the back cover

The iPad mini 2’s touchscreen is glued firmly in place. To detach it, you have to constantly heat it with a heat gun so the glue will soften (see figures 1 and 2). Make sure you only heat the edge of the display. Then you have to insert a plastic pick into the gap between the frame and the display to detach the adhesive.

1. Turn off the iPad.
2. Start with the left and right sides, where there’s only a small adhesive strip. Insert a laboratory spatula about 4 millimeters between the aluminum frame and the display frame (see figure 3). Be very careful to avoid damaging the LCD under them or the touchscreen with the spatula. Alternatively, you can lift the glass with a suction cup. At the same time, insert a pick between the aluminum frame and the display frame.

Once you’ve inserted the first pick, you can lift the screen slightly. Continue heating the edge of the display during this process.

Now use more picks to work your way around the display one time (see figures 4 and 5).

Don’t work on the side where the Home button is until the next step. The important flexible flat cables under it could get damaged.

1. As soon as you’ve finished with the upper part of the glass, you can slowly lift the screen at the part where the FaceTime camera is. At the same time, heat the bottom of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is (see figure 1). You should be able to feel the glue slowly coming undone while you continue to carefully lift and heat the screen.
2. Once the glue is fully dissolved, you can lift the screen all the way, fold it over and set it down (see figure 2). Make sure you don’t stretch the LCD and touchscreen cables too much.Avoid getting fingerprints on the LCD. If necessary, you can wear latex gloves.

1. First remove the adhesive strips at the four corners of your iPad. There are screws below them (see figure 1).
   There are also magnets to hold the Smart Cover in place.
2. Now remove the three stickers from the LCD (see figures 2 to 4).
3. Then unscrew the four Phillips screws.
   3 x 3.3 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 4.5 mm Phillips screw

1. The LCD is lightly glued to the rear panel all along the sides. Carefully insert the laboratory spatula at the edges between the silver rear panel and the LCD to slowly detach the glue (see figures 1 and 2).

1. There are seven identical Phillips screws holding the silver rear panel in place. Remove them.
   7 x 1.7 mm Phillips screws
2. Now lift the rear panel and remove it.

1. Now remove the three Phillips screws from the silver cable cover (see figure 1).
   2 x 1.3 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 2.8 mm Phillips screw
2. Then lift the cover to remove it (see figure 2).
3. Now carefully lift off the battery connector by inserting the flat end of the ESD spudger slightly below the connector (see figure 3). If you don’t have a spudger, you can also try using your fingernail.
   You can also go ahead and remove the battery at this point by skipping ahead to step 13, but we don’t recommend it because you could damage other parts during removal.

1. Disconnect the LCD connector (see figure 1). Be very careful. Insert the flat end of the spudger very slightly below the contact and lift it up. Now you can remove the LCD.
2. Disconnect the touchscreen connector (see figure 2). Once again, be very careful.
   The cable is still lightly glued in place. Use the spudger to detach the glue (see figure 3).

1. Unscrew the Phillips screw from the camera cover (see figure 1).
   1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw
2. Now remove the silver camera cover (see figure 2).
3. Then disconnect the camera connector by placing the pointed tip of the spudger very slightly below the contact and lifting it up (see figure 3).
4. Now carefully lift out the camera using the spudger. There are two bars holding the camera in place. Push it up along the bars (see figure 4).

1. Remove the sticker over the camera’s plug connection (see figure 1).
2. There are two flat metal bars under it. Set them aside (see figure 2).
3. Then disconnect the camera connector by placing the flat end of the spudger very slightly below the contact and lifting it up (see figure 3).
4. The front camera is still stuck to the microphone with a foam support frame. Using the laboratory spatula, carefully detach the support frame from the cable under it (see figure 4).

1. Remove the sticker over the plug connections (see figure 1).
2. Carefully flip over the little black rocker switch on the logic board using the spudger (see figure 2).
3. Then carefully pull off the microphone cable’s connector using tweezers or your fingers (see figure 3).
4. Using the laboratory spatula, carefully detach the cable set from the enclosure (see figures 4 and 5) and then remove it (see figure 6).

1. Remove the sticker over the headphone cable connection (see figure 1).
2. There are two flat metal bars under it. Set them aside.
3. Then disconnect the connector by placing the flat end of the spudger very slightly below the contact and lifting it up (see figure 2).
4. Now unscrew the Phillips screw (see figure 3).
   1 x 4.3 mm Phillips screw
5. Then insert the spudger under the entire length of the cable (see figure 4).
6. Now you can remove the headphone output (see figure 5).

1. Unscrew the Phillips screw on the cover (see figure 1) and remove it (see figure 2).
   
   1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw
2. Then lift the standby/volume cable set connector to remove it (see figure 3). Carefully place the flat end of the spudger below the contact and lift it up.
3. Now carefully fold in the cable set (see figure 4). It’s lightly glued in place. There are more screws under it.

1. Remove the four identical Phillips screws from the volume and standby button bracket (see figure 1). Put the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray.
   4 x 2.2 mm Phillips screws
2. Carefully detach the mute button from the bracket (see figure 2). It’s lightly glued in place.
3. Now remove the plastic bracket (see figure 3). Then you can remove the cable set (see figure 4).

1. Carefully peel off all the marked stickers (see figure 1).
2. Now remove the four Phillips screws (see figure 2).
   3 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   
3. The antenna is stuck to the speaker under it. Carefully remove it using the laboratory spatula (see figure 3).
4. Now slowly pull out the antenna cable and carefully lift off the antenna connector using the spatula (see figure 4).

1. Remove the angled sticker (see figures 1 and 2).
   The antenna cable is under it.
2. Now remove the three Phillips screws (see figure 3).
   2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   
3. The antenna is stuck to the speaker under it. Carefully remove it using the laboratory spatula (see figure 4).
4. Now slowly pull out the antenna cable (see figure 5) and carefully lift off the antenna connector using the spatula (see figure 6).

1. Remove the two identical Phillips screws.
   2 x 1.8 mm Phillips screws
2. Remove the two washers below them (see figure 2).

Now use the laboratory spatula to push out the two speakers (see figures 1 and 2).

1. Remove the three Phillips screws (see figure 1).
   2 x 1.9 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw
2. Heat the surfaces where the Lightning connector cable and the iSight camera are from the back (see figure 2).
3. Now insert the spudger below the logic board. It’s only lightly glued on in two places (see figures 3 and 4). Then remove it (see figure 5).

1. The battery is glued to the enclosure. You have to heat it at regular intervals during the next steps (see figure 1).
   
   
   Take your time with this step. Don’t bend the battery. Hazardous substances can leak out of damaged batteries.
2. When the glue under the battery is warm enough, you can carefully insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the battery and the enclosure (see figures 2 to 4).
   You can also use an old credit card or similar flat, stable objects.Work your way millimeter by millimeter from the outer edge inward. This can take 10 minutes. If the glue hardens again while you’re working, heat the back of the iPad again.
3. Once the battery is fully detached, you can lift it out.

1. Now put in the new battery. Make sure it’s positioned correctly.
2. Make sure the old glue on the inside of the enclosure is still sticky enough. The battery needs to lie flush with the enclosure and be glued in place.

1. Put the logic board back in and screw it in place.
   2 x 1.9 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw

1. Now push the two speakers back into the gaps in the enclosure.
2. Put the washers back on (see figure 1) and screw the speakers in place with the two Phillips screws (see figure 2).
   2 x 1.8 mm Phillips screws

1. Connect the Wi-Fi antenna with the long cable again and install it just like before. Make sure you compare it with figure 1.
2. Attach the antenna to the speaker again and screw it in place (see figure 2).
   2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   
3. Now put the sticker back on (see figure 3).

1. Connect the Wi-Fi antenna with the long cable again and install it just like before. Make sure you compare it with figure 1.
2. Attach the antenna to the speaker again and screw it in place (see figure 2).
   2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   
3. Now put the sticker back on (see figure 3).

1. Transfer the volume up and down buttons, as well as the rail for the standby button, from the old cable set.
2. Now put the new cable set in the original location (see figure 1). Make sure you fit the standby and mute buttons properly.
3. Fasten the bracket with the four identical Phillips screws (see figure 2).
   4 x 2.2 mm Phillips screws
4. Now put the cable set over the bracket again, connect the connector and screw the cover onto it (see figure 3).
   1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw

1. Install the new cable set in the original location (see figure 1) and gently press it into the enclosure.
2. Screw the cable set in place (see figure 2).
   1 x 4.3 mm Phillips screw
3. Connect the connector, put the two flat metal bars back over it and put the sticker back on (see figure 3).

1. Install the new cable set in the original location (see figure 1) and gently press it into the enclosure.
2. Reconnect the microphone cable using a pair of tweezers (see figure 2) and flip the little rocker switch over again (see figure 3).
3. Now put the sticker back on (see figure 4).

1. Take the foam support frame from the old camera and put it back in the original location.
2. Connect the connector and put the two flat metal bars back over it (see figure 1).
3. Now put the sticker back on (see figure 2).

1. Transfer the soft stickers from the old camera.
2. Guide the new camera along the bars into the original position and connect it (see figure 1).
3. Now attach the camera cover again and screw it in place (see figure 2).
   1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw

1. Connect the new touchscreen’s cable and gently press it on at the point where it was glued on.
2. Now you can install the LCD cable again (see figure 2).

1. Now connect the battery connector again.
2. Put the silver cover back on and screw it in place (see figure 2).

2 x 1.3 mm Phillips screws
1 x 2.8 mm Phillips screw

1. Put the rear panel back in and screw it in place.
7 x 1.7 mm Phillips screws

1. Now put the LCD back in the frame.Make sure you don’t leave any fingerprints on the display. If necessary, we recommend using latex gloves.
2. Now fasten the four Phillips screws and make sure the magnets are positioned correctly.
   3 x 3 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 4.5 mm Phillips screw
3. Attach the adhesive strips to the LCD again (see figure 2).

1. Now you can attach the screen again. First peel the protective film off the inside of the screen and see if there are any fingerprints.
   
   Make sure there are no fingerprints or dust on the LCD. Remove any fingerprints with a microfiber cleaning cloth. You can use an air compressor or compressed air spray to blow away the dust.
2. Now remove the protective strips from the adhesive strip.
3. Then put on the touchscreen quickly but precisely so no new dust can settle on the LCD.
4. Press on the screen at the edges and then weight it down for a long time, for example with a few books, so it’s pressed firmly onto the enclosure.