iPhone 4s - Replacing the screen

1. You need a pentalobe screwdriver to open your phone.
2. Remove the two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure. They are located to the right and left of the dock connector. Put the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray.
   2 x 3.6 mm pentalobe screws

1. Use your thumbs or the palm of your hand to push the back cover of your iPhone about 4 mm away from the bottom of the phone where the dock connector is (see figure 1).
2. Then you can lift the back cover at the end that’s sticking out past the phone (see figure 2).

1. If your iPhone’s still on, turn it off now by holding down the standby button for about five seconds and following the prompt on the display.
2. Remove the two Phillips screws on the battery connector using a Phillips screwdriver (see figure 1). Put the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray.
   1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw
   The contact point on the logic board could come off. If the contact point breaks off but the soldering points are still intact, you can solder the contact point back on.
3. Now carefully lift off the battery connector by inserting the pointed ESD spudger slightly below the silver cover plate (see figure 2). If you don’t have a spudger, you can also try using your fingernail.
4. For the rest of the repair, you can also use the metal laboratory spatula instead of the spudger. This may make some steps easier for you. However, we explicitly recommend using the ESD spudger produced specifically for precision electronics.

1. The antenna cover is under the battery connector. Remove the cover and put it in the same compartment of your organizer tray as the Phillips screws you removed before (see figure 1).
2. Now remove the battery. It’s sometimes glued firmly in place. Insert the flat end of the spudger into the space (about 1 cm to the left of the volume down button) between the battery and the outer frame, and slowly lift the battery (see figure 2). If the battery’s really stuck on, use other leverage points to the right and left of the original spot to pry it off. If you still can’t detach the battery, you can use a heat gun to warm it slightly from the outside and soften the glue.
3. Now you can also disconnect the antenna connector by carefully pulling it off the plug head using the spudger (see figure 3).

1. Fold the plastic tab with the warning over and press it firmly onto the lower adhesive strip. This way, it won’t get in the way during your repair.
2. Of course, you can also remove the plastic tab.

1. Remove the two Phillips screws from the dock connection cable and remove the silver cover (see figure 1).
   1 x 1.1 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 1.4 mm Phillips screw
2. Put the screws and cover in the same compartment of your organizer tray. It’s easy to tell them apart.
3. Now you can carefully detach the connector by using the pointed tip of the spudger to lift the connector. Alternatively, you can also use your fingernail again (see figure 2).
4. Pull the flat cable that’s lightly glued in place off of the logic board and bend it carefully over the frame (see figure 3).

1. Remove the four Phillips screws from the cover (see figure 1). Put the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray. It’s easy to tell them apart.
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 2.7 mm Phillips screw (thin thread)
2. The cover is slightly clamped in place on the midframe (see figure 2). In order to remove the cover, use the spudger to push it slightly to the left, toward the dock connector (see figure 3).

1. Use the spudger to lift off the camera connector and remove the camera (see figure 1).
2. Use a pair of tweezers or the laboratory spatula to remove the black sticker below the flash (see figure 2).
3. There’s a Phillips screw below that. Remove it (see figure 3).
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
4. Now remove the copper contact (see figure 4).
5. Put all the parts in the same compartment of your organizer tray.

1. Now you can disconnect the following five connectors. Be very careful.
LCD
Touchscreen
Front camera
Headphone output/volume controller
Standby//proximity sensor Make sure you don’t break off the resistors that are soldered onto the logic board.
2. Place the pointed tip of the spudger very slightly below the contact and lift it up.
3. Start with the connector. There’s a second connector below it.
4. Test the new display.
   • Temporarily connect the new display assembly.
   • Connect the dock connector, the connectors you disconnected previously and then the battery.
   • Start the iPhone and check whether the LCD and touchscreen work properly. Make sure the connectors are securely plugged in to the connections.

1. Remove the Phillips screw on the antenna cover (see figure 1). Put the screw in a separate compartment of your organizer tray.
   1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw
2. Now you can remove the cover of the antenna cable (see figure 2). Put it with the screw you removed before.
3. Disconnect the antenna connector below it using the spudger (see figure 3).

1. You can use the SIM Tool or a paperclip to remove the SIM card tray. Press the SIM Tool into the small hole in the SIM card tray to remove it.

1. Now unscrew all four screws that hold the logic board in place (see figure 1) and sort them as follows.
   / and / in two different compartments of your organizer tray.
2. You’ll need both the Phillips screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver or the laboratory spatula.
   1 x 4.9 mm Phillips/flathead screw
   1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 3.7 mm Phillips/flathead screw
3. Now you can carefully lift the logic board below the battery connection using the spudger (see figure 2) and remove it by hand (see figure 3).
4. There’s a little black rubber protector on the upper end of the logic board (see figure 4). It comes off easily. Put it with the screws from this step so it doesn’t get lost.

1. Now remove the vibration motor.
2. It’s glued firmly in place. It may help if you warm it up with a heat gun to soften the glue.
3. Insert the spatula or spudger below the vibration motor and carefully lift it out.
   

1. Loosen the two Phillips screws on the speaker but only remove the one in the turquoise circle (see figure 1). This way, you won’t have to struggle to get the little black triangle back in later. Put the screw in a separate compartment of your organizer tray.
   1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw (just loosen)
   1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw
2. Use the spudger to remove the speaker (see figure 2).

1. Now carefully loosen the six identical Phillips screws (three on each side) by two or three turns.
   6 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws
2. You don’t need to remove the screws completely. This way, it’ll be easier to put your phone back together later.

1. The identical Phillips screws in the four corners of your iPhone are still holding the display in place.
2. In the corner with the turquoise circle, this screw is under a sticker. You have to remove it first.
3. Remove all four screws.
   3 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw

1. It may help to warm up the front of the display at the top and bottom using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the glue (see figure 1).
2. Insert the flat end of the spudger about 2 to 3 mm between the display assembly and the silver frame, and slowly lift the screen. If you use a different pointed or flat tool, make sure you don’t scratch the front panel from the inside. This is especially important when you’re replacing the Home button’s flexible flat cable because you’ll be using the same screen.
3. Start between the headphone output and the standby button (see figure 2). As soon as there’s a little gap, try to pull off the display with your fingers. The strength of the glue can vary greatly.
4. Using the spudger, work your way around the entire frame once (see figure 3). If the display is still really stuck on, use some more hot air.
5. Keep warming it up until you can easily lift the display assembly (see figure 4) and it’s no longer stuck on (please note: The display’s connection cables are on the side with the standby button).

1. Pay special attention to the touch and LCD cable when you remove the display.
2. Carefully guide this cable through the midplane.

1. Not all available displays have the same features. f necessary, you’ll have to take some of the following parts from your old display before installing the new screen:
   • Earpiece mesh from the old screen; may have to be glued on (see figure 1)
   • Front camera bracket (see figures 2 and 3)
   • Frame sticker at the sensor site. (See figure 4).
2. Transfer the Home button. It’s glued to the old screen. Carefully detach the adhesive film using tweezers or the spatula (see figure 5). Then you can use a paintbrush to remove the dust from the Home button.
3. Pull the protective film off the back of the new LCD.
4. If the adhesive film next to the Home button and front camera is clean, you can continue to use it. Otherwise, pull it off.

When you put on the new display, make sure you pull the LCD and touchscreen cables all the way through the slot in the midframe. You have to pull both cables through the slot up to the same length (see figures 1 and 2).

1. See if you can press the Home button as usual once the assembly is evenly on the frame. Make sure that the display is properly fitted to the frame (see figure 3).
2. Make sure the washers for the six identical Phillips screws are fitted properly (see figure 4). (The display’s clips should be between the washer and the frame.)

1. Now you have to tighten the six identical Phillips screws (three on each side).
   6 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws

1. Fasten all four identical Phillips screws again.
   3 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw
2. Don’t forget to put the little black sticker back on the screw.

1. Put the speaker back in.
2. At first, only tighten the two Phillips screws on the speaker a little bit (see figure 1).
   1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw
3. The speaker’s clips have to be against the speaker behind the higher level of the middle cover (see figure 2). This is easiest if you only slightly screw in the speaker at first so it can still move around a little.
4. Once the clips are fitted properly, you can tighten the screws.

1. Now put the vibration motor in the appropriate position.
2. The old glue is usually enough to hold it, but if the vibration motor is too loose, use new glue. If it’s not securely attached, your phone’s vibration will be weaker.

1. Put the rubber protector back on the sharp edge of the logic board. The thicker part should be facing down (see figure 1).
2. Put the logic board back in carefully as shown in the picture (see figure 2). The logic board will click gently into place when it’s in the right position. This may take several attempts. Use figure 3 to check whether your logic board is in the right place.
   Make sure the antenna cable attached to the speaker isn’t under the logic board.
3. Now screw in all four Phillips screws that hold the logic board in place (see figure 3).
   1 x 4.9 mm Phillips/flathead screw
   1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 3.7 mm Phillips/flathead screw

1. Connect the antenna connector (see figure 1).
2. Put on the cover for the antenna cable (see figure 2).
3. Fasten the Phillips screw on the antenna cover (see figure 3).
   1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw

1. Reconnect all five contacts. Use your finger to carefully press them in. Only use as much pressure as you need for the contacts to gently click into place.
2. If the LCD cable is too short, you forgot to pull it tightly through the slot in the midframe.
   Don’t pull too hard on the cable if it’s too short because it could easily tear. We recommend that you reinstall the display.

1. Put the copper contact back in as shown in the picture (see figure 1).
2. Then tighten the Phillips screw in the thread again (see figure 2).
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
3. Use tweezers or the laboratory spatula to put on the black sticker (see figure 3).
4. Connect the camera connector.

1. Carefully put on the cover. It will be slightly clamped in place (see figure 1).
2. Fasten all the Phillips screws on the connector cover (see figure 2):
   1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw
   2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws
   1 x 2.7 mm Phillips screw (thin thread)

1. Connect the dock connection cable again and put the silver cover on it.
2. Fasten the two Phillips screws for the dock connection cable.
   1 x 1.1 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 1.4 mm Phillips screw

1. Detach the plastic tab with the warning or stick it back in if you took it out.

1. Now put the battery back in the iPhone.
2. First you have to attach the antenna connector again (see figure 1).
3. Then install the antenna cover (see figure 2).
4. Now click the battery connector back into place and screw it in (see figure 3).
   1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw
   1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw

1. Put the back cover back on and carefully push it the last few millimeters toward the dock connector.

1. Now screw in the two screws at the bottom of the enclosure.
   2 x 3.6 mm pentalobe screws
2. Then all you have to do is push in the SIM card tray.

When the battery is removed from the device, the iPhone loses the time and sets itself to 1:00 a.m. on 1/1/1970. You could have trouble connecting to the cellular network if the time isn’t set.

After a repair, complete the following steps:

1. Synchronize your iPhone with iTunes or connect to a WLAN network and wait until the time is set.
2. Remove the SIM tray with the SIM card and reinsert it.
3. Activate airplane mode on the device and then deactivate airplane mode.